|Year of production (circa)||
18k Yellow gold
22 x 30 mm
Original gold buckle
Cartier service papers 2023
Cartier Santos Dumont Ref. 9606 ‘Paris’
Elegance in its purest form!
Sometimes less is more. Like in the thickness of a good dress watch. Laying flat on the wrist, effortlessly sliding under your cuff. Drawing attention through its tasteful beauty, rather than its girth.
But there is a bit of fascinating history to this watch as well. Mister Santos Dumont was a Brazilian dandy and aviation pioneer, born in 1873. This was a time when men wore pocket watches and only women would be spotted with a wristwatch. Being well-connected, Santos asked Louis Cartier for a watch to use while flying in 1906. This would come in handy for navigation purposes.
Cartier took up the challenge and since this was supposed to be a practical tool for continuous reading of the time, the result would be wrist-worn. The Cartier Santos was born in 1911, originally with the Jaeger movement. This is now considered the very first pilot’s watch and also the first wristwatch for men.
The example we have here still clearly shares its DNA with this legendary predecessor. Now suited to both men and women and is considered more of a dressy watch, due to its classical aesthetic and proportions. It is fitted with a manually wound mechanical movement, to allow for maximum thinness. Or should we say minimal thickness? It is “Paris” signed, which is a big plus for the Cartier connoisseur.
Availability: In stock
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Amsterdam Pocket Watch Company. Or Amsterdam Women’s-only Watch Company. Two alternate realities that could have been, if it weren’t for Louis Cartier. Many of our brands can lay claim on important horological innovations, but Cartier is the one that started the wristwatch game for men with the Santos.
The Brazilian dandy Alberto Santos Dumont inquired with his friend Louis Cartier about a better solution for telling time while flying. His pocket watch was rather cumbersome in flight. Louis Cartier designed a flat, square watch for him in 1904: the Cartier Santos.
While, for a long time, watches were used for navigation, this was not yet the case for dear old Santos. His flight, the first to ever be caught on film, lasted for only 21 seconds. Not a lot of navigation required there! He was wearing the world’s first men’s wristwatch though.
The Santos went into large-scale production in 1911, fitted with a Jaeger caliber inside. The cases came in platinum or gold and the Santos came on the very first ever folding clasp, fitted to brown or black leather straps.
The 1970’s Quartz crisis and Audemars Piguet’s brilliant answer in the Royal Oak, triggered Cartier to morph the Santos into a modern sports watch. A steel version on an integrated steel bracelet was introduced in 1978, the Santos de Cartier. A more rounded, quartz powered Santos Galbée was launched in 1987. Multiple variations on the theme were launched since. If it is the classical look you are after, the Santos Dumont remains most faithful to the very first Santos from 1904.
While the Santos debuted as the tool-watch for men. It has aged into a classical, more dressy watch for men and women alike. As we are slowly but surely moving away from gender-specific watches, the Santos is a prime example of a watch for everyone. A design classic with a story that will surely captivate your audience, next time you have drinks with friends.
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Unfortunately, we cannot be held responsible for any delays caused by destination customs clearance processes, local duties and taxes, and items that are lost in transit.