Brand | Patek Philippe |
---|---|
Model | |
Reference | 3411 |
Year of production (circa) | 1964 |
Material | 18k Yellow gold |
Crystal | Acrylic |
Dial color | Silver |
Movement | Hand-wound |
Diameter | 35 mm |
Bracelet/strap: | Leather |
Buckle/clasp | Generic plated |
Lug Width | 18 mm |
Set Content | Watch only |
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3415
This is true design by deduction!
While it might be tempting to add details when drawing a new watch, it is much harder to bring it back to its bare essentials and still keep it visually interesting.
This is a great example of that philosophy. You couldn’t take much more away before it becomes useless as a watch.
So how come this watch isn’t dull to look at? The devil is in the details! For starters, the watch is extremely wearable at 35mm, the crown subtly breaks the symmetry, throwing the balance off just enough to create visual interest. And then there is silver dial with gold applied indices. Ton-sur-ton with the 18k yellow gold case. Low in contrast, but just enough to draw you in. The daggwerr hands and long applied indices suggest movement inward towards the center.
Sometimes a whisper, only barely audible, draws so much more attention and fascination than a loud roar. This is the horological equivalent of that effect.
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In 1932, the year in which brothers Charles and Jean Stern acquired Patek Philippe, the name of the manufacture’s prestigious symbol, the Calatrava cross, was given to a watch collection. The first true ‘family’ of watches Patek Philippe had created, the Calatrava quickly became a classic and is still regarded today as the brand’s most iconic collection.
The design was inspired by the Bauhaus movement, a German school of Arts based on the belief that ‘less is more’ and ‘form follows function’. Since the purpose of a watch is to tell the time, these principles discouraged any embellishments which could detract from the time-telling.
The result was a watch that was at once beautiful and practical. Presented in a round case with a flat bezel and simple dial with baton indices, the art of omission in the debut model Ref. 96, came to characterize the Calatrava’s understated, yet timeless style.
The design has become a template for other brands. A simple, minimalist dress watch with a sub-dial for the seconds at six o’clock, is often referred to as a Calatrava watch, regardless of the brand. So while Patek did it first, it is perfectly reasonable to stumble upon a JLC Calatrava or a Vacheron Constantin Calatrava.
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