AWCo Dinsdag 14 juni 43AWCo Dinsdag 14 juni 43

Breguet Type XX Ref. 3800

When we think of Breguet most people think of marine and classic designs. But they do a lot more. In the fifties, Breguet produced a watch for the french airforce fitted with a flyback mechanism. Here we have a direct descendant of that watch.

The one you see here is from 1998. It appears a bit larger than it is, the case measures 39 mm. The highlight of the show here is the dial. Matte black with beautifully yellowed tritium. It features a big-eye chronograph minute-counter at three o’clock.

Originally a tool watch, now a luxury watch for every occasion. Come and check it out at Reestraat 3 in Amsterdam.


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Brand Breguet
Movement Automatic
Model Type XX
Diameter 39 mm
Reference 3800
Bracelet/strap: Leather
Year of production (circa) 1998
Buckle/clasp Original steel folding clasp
Material Steel
Lug Width 21 mm
Crystal Sapphire
Warranty 2 year (AWCo)
Dial color Black

While the Swiss might spring to mind first, when thinking of high-end watchmaking, the French were rather early to the party. Abraham-Louis Breguet founded Breguet in 1775 in Paris, France. It is one of those old-world houses, with a strong focus on tradition and heritage. No futuristic angular designs in carbon fiber here. Just pure, old school craftsmanship in haute horology.

Breguet pioneered many concepts and technologies we now take for granted. They were, for instance, the very first to create a wrist-worn watch in 1810. A special commissioned project for Caroline Bonaparte, queen of Naples.

Breguet was also the first to create a self-winding pocket watch movement, labeled Perpetuelle as early as 1780. And if you are still not convinced that the French can do some serious watchmaking: Breguet also invented the tourbillon.

Breguet’s reputation is cemented by its impressive clientele. From influential composers such as Rachmaninoff and Rossini to Ettore Bugatti, Napoleon Bonaparte and Winston Churchill. They all chose Breguet to keep them on schedule.

While Breguet was acquired by Swatch Group in 1999, the house maintains a strong focus on traditional watchmaking. You will find classical French designs, highly complicated movements and a rich array of finishing techniques here.

If you love the aesthetics of coin-edge cases, Roman numerals and intricate guilloché work, Breguet will surely speak to you.


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Year of production (circa)






Dial color





39 mm




Original steel folding clasp

Lug Width

21 mm